Seams R Us
At long last…a few lessons learned on seaming (and blocking.) Most of you probably know all of these tips. But I, for one, sure learned a couple of good ones!
Sizing: For sweaters, knit the back first to the desired LENGTH. Mark every 10 or 20 rows with a little split ring marker to make counting rows easier. Then, knit the front piece(s)to the same row count as the back. This will keep you from having to stop and measure all of the time. And you’re be assured of having an even stitch count to seam together.
Seaming sides: Place decreases at least 1 stitch in from the edge. Place increases at least 2 stitches in from the edge. This ensures you have a clean line of stitches to follow when you seam.
Blocking Boards: Make your own blocking board from a stiff surface (thick cardboard) covered with some quilt batting and then gingham fabric. The gingham forms a natural grid for you to use as blocking guides.
Blocking sweaters: Block the back of the sweater first. Then, lay the front piece(s) of the sweater over the back and pin down. This prevents you having to measure twice. Just keep a fan running to keep the drying time down.
Blocking sweaters: For a sweater than hangs straight at the bottom, don’t pin the outer inch or two of the bottom corners. Allow these corners to “pull in” a bit. This will prevent the bottoms from flaring when it’s all pieced together and worn.
Weaving in bulky ends: If you’re using a bulky yarn, split the yarn in two and weave in those ends separately (in opposite directions.) This is a very secure way to weave in ends without adding bulk.
1) Shoulder seams (If it’s a raglan sleeve, do the bar to bar first)
2) Neck edging and front bands
3) Attach sleeves (for set in sleeves, baste first)
4) Sleeve underarms (from armpit out to wrist)
Tomorrow…a new friend to introduce. Here’s a hint…it’s from THIS FABULOUS BOOKLET.